Sewknitcrochet · a craft library
Beginner Knitted Sweater Lesson
Make a relaxed, seamed drop-shoulder pullover in flat pieces. This guide explains each step in plain language and gives ready-to-follow stitch counts for adult XS through XXL.
01 / Fit first
Choose a size that feels good.
Measure around the fullest part of your chest, keeping the tape level. Choose the closest body-chest row. The finished sweater is drafted with about 6 in (15 cm) of positive ease: it is 6 in (15 cm) larger around than the body measurement.
| Adult size | Body chest | Finished chest | Body length | Sleeve length | Yarn estimate |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 32 in / 81 cm | 38 in / 97 cm | 22 in / 56 cm | 17 in / 43 cm | 1,000 yd / 914 m |
| S | 36 in / 91 cm | 42 in / 107 cm | 23 in / 58 cm | 18 in / 46 cm | 1,100 yd / 1,006 m |
| M | 40 in / 102 cm | 46 in / 117 cm | 24 in / 61 cm | 19 in / 48 cm | 1,250 yd / 1,143 m |
| L | 44 in / 112 cm | 50 in / 127 cm | 25 in / 64 cm | 20 in / 51 cm | 1,400 yd / 1,280 m |
| XL | 48 in / 122 cm | 54 in / 137 cm | 26 in / 66 cm | 21 in / 53 cm | 1,550 yd / 1,417 m |
| XXL | 52 in / 132 cm | 58 in / 147 cm | 27 in / 69 cm | 22 in / 56 cm | 1,750 yd / 1,600 m |
- Size key — XS extra small, S small, M medium, L large, XL extra large, XXL double extra large.
- Body length is measured from the shoulder seam straight down to the bottom edge.
- Sleeve length is measured from the center of the sleeve top to the cuff edge.
- Yardage is an estimate for the whole sweater. Buy a little extra if your yarn lot or personal tension varies.
02 / Gather your tools
Materials and tools
Medium / worsted (#4) yarn
Use the yardage estimate for your size. A smooth, light-colored yarn makes stitches easier to see.
US 8 (5 mm) needles
Straight or circular needles long enough to hold a sweater panel, for the stockinette fabric.
US 7 (4.5 mm) needles
Use for the body and sleeve ribbing, and for picking up the neck stitches.
Finishing kit
Tapestry needle, stitch holders or smooth scrap yarn, locking markers, tape measure, and scissors.
Optional but useful
A flexible measuring tape, blocking mats and pins, and a kitchen scale for checking how much yarn remains.
03 / Swatch before the sweater
Match the blocked gauge.
Gauge means how many stitches and rows fit in a measured area. This draft pattern expects stockinette gauge of 18 stitches and 24 rows per 4 in (10 cm) after washing and blocking.
- Knit a generous swatch. With the US 8 (5 mm) needles, cast on 26 stitches. Knit 32 rows of stockinette: knit across the outside-facing rows and purl across the inside-facing rows.
- Wash and dry it as you will the sweater. Lay it flat, pat it to shape, and let it dry completely without stretching it.
- Measure the center 4 in (10 cm). Count 18 stitches across and 24 rows tall. Avoid the curled edges.
- Adjust if needed. If you have more than 18 stitches in 4 in, try a larger needle; if you have fewer, try a smaller needle. Re-knit and block a swatch until it matches. Use one needle size smaller for ribbing.
04 / Ready-to-follow counts
Use the same size from hem to cuff.
Choose one column-size label and use it for the back, front, both sleeves, and neck. The two edge stitches in each flat piece are seam stitches: knit them on every row. All body and sleeve rows include those edges. No decreases are needed for this straight, drop-shoulder shape.
Front and back panels
| Size | Cast on for each panel | Stitches on each shoulder | Center neck stitches | Front neck starts on row | Back neck starts on row | Bind off at row |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 88 | 26 | 36 | 115 | 124 | 132 total rows |
| S | 96 | 29 | 38 | 121 | 130 | 138 total rows |
| M | 106 | 33 | 40 | 127 | 136 | 144 total rows |
| L | 114 | 36 | 42 | 133 | 142 | 150 total rows |
| XL | 124 | 40 | 44 | 139 | 148 | 156 total rows |
| XXL | 132 | 43 | 46 | 145 | 154 | 162 total rows |
Each body panel has 12 rib rows, then stockinette to the listed neck row. Front and back have the same cast-on, shoulder counts, and total rows; only the neck opening starts at a different row. There are no increases or decreases on either body panel; the neck split is the only shaping.
Two matching sleeves
| Size | Cuff cast on | Upper sleeve stitches after increases | Paired increases | Increase on these stockinette right-side rows | Total sleeve rows |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 38 | 74 | 18 times (add 2 stitches each time) | 2, 5, 7, 10, 12, 15, 17, 19, 22, 24, 27, 29, 31, 34, 36, 39, 41, 44 | 102 total rows |
| S | 42 | 78 | 18 times (add 2 stitches each time) | 3, 5, 8, 10, 13, 15, 18, 21, 23, 26, 28, 31, 34, 36, 39, 41, 44, 46 | 108 total rows |
| M | 46 | 84 | 19 times (add 2 stitches each time) | 3, 5, 8, 10, 13, 16, 18, 21, 23, 26, 29, 31, 34, 36, 39, 42, 44, 47, 49 | 114 total rows |
| L | 46 | 88 | 21 times (add 2 stitches each time) | 3, 5, 8, 10, 13, 15, 18, 20, 23, 25, 28, 30, 33, 35, 38, 40, 43, 45, 48, 50, 53 | 120 total rows |
| XL | 52 | 92 | 20 times (add 2 stitches each time) | 3, 6, 8, 11, 14, 17, 19, 22, 25, 28, 30, 33, 36, 39, 41, 44, 47, 50, 52, 55 | 126 total rows |
| XXL | 56 | 96 | 20 times (add 2 stitches each time) | 3, 6, 9, 12, 15, 17, 20, 23, 26, 29, 32, 35, 38, 41, 44, 46, 49, 52, 55, 58 | 132 total rows |
Sleeve increase-row numbers count only the outside-facing stockinette rows after the 12 cuff-rib rows. The first such row is sleeve row 13. At every listed row, increase one stitch just inside each seam edge.
Lengths, armhole openings, and neckline
| Size | Body length and rows | Side opening depth | Sleeve length and rows | Neck stitches to pick up | Neck rib rounds |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 22 in / 56 cm; 132 rows | 8 in / 20 cm; leave the top 48 rows open | 17 in / 43 cm; 102 rows | 112 total | 6 rounds |
| S | 23 in / 58 cm; 138 rows | 8 in / 20 cm; leave the top 48 rows open | 18 in / 46 cm; 108 rows | 116 total | 6 rounds |
| M | 24 in / 61 cm; 144 rows | 9 in / 23 cm; leave the top 54 rows open | 19 in / 48 cm; 114 rows | 120 total | 6 rounds |
| L | 25 in / 64 cm; 150 rows | 9 in / 23 cm; leave the top 54 rows open | 20 in / 51 cm; 120 rows | 124 total | 6 rounds |
| XL | 26 in / 66 cm; 156 rows | 10 in / 25 cm; leave the top 60 rows open | 21 in / 53 cm; 126 rows | 128 total | 6 rounds |
| XXL | 27 in / 69 cm; 162 rows | 10 in / 25 cm; leave the top 60 rows open | 22 in / 56 cm; 132 rows | 132 total | 6 rounds |
The neckline total is the front center count plus the back center count, with 20 stitches picked up along each of the two short side edges. The body and sleeve lengths use the blocked row gauge above.
05 / Make it, one piece at a time
Step-by-step knitting instructions
“Right side” means the outside of the sweater. “Wrong side” means the inside. In stockinette worked flat, knit every stitch on right-side rows and purl every center stitch on wrong-side rows; knit the first and last seam stitch on every row.
Cast on
A cast-on makes the first row of loops. For a long-tail cast-on, make a slip knot and count it as stitch one. Hold the tail over your thumb and the working yarn over your index finger. Pass the needle under the thumb strand, catch the index strand, draw it through the thumb loop, release your thumb, and snug the new stitch. Repeat until you reach the table count.
Knit and purl
To knit, put the right needle through the front of the next loop on the left needle, wrap the working yarn around the right tip, draw a new loop through, and slip the old loop off. To purl, bring the yarn to the front, put the right needle through the front of the next loop, wrap the yarn around its tip, draw a loop through, and slip the old loop off.
Bind off
Work two stitches. Use the left needle to lift the first loop on the right needle over the second loop and off the tip. Work one more stitch and lift the older loop over it. Repeat to the end, cut the yarn, and pull the tail through the last loop. For ribbing, knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches as you bind off.
- 1
Make and block your gauge swatch.
Follow the swatch steps above with the main needle. Start the sweater only when the washed, dry center measures 18 stitches and 24 rows per 4 in (10 cm). Keep the yarn and needle combination that gave you that result.
- 2
Cast on the back and work the hem.
With the smaller ribbing needle, cast on the body count for your size in the first table. Knit the first and last stitch on every row. Between them, work knit one, purl one on the outside-facing rows; on inside-facing rows, knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches to keep the ribs stacked in columns. Repeat that 1×1 rib for 12 rows (about 2 in / 5 cm).
- 3
Knit the back to its shoulders.
Change to the main needle. Starting with the outside-facing row 13, work stockinette, always knitting the first and last seam stitch. On the back-neck row listed for your size, move the center neck stitches to a holder. Work the two shoulder groups separately, using a second yarn end for the other side. Continue stockinette to the total body row count, then bind off each shoulder group. Return to the held center stitches and bind them off for the back neck.
- 4
Knit the front with its deeper neck.
Make another body panel exactly like the back, following the same rib rows, main needle, total rows, and shoulder counts. On the earlier front-neck row listed for your size, hold the center neck stitches and work both shoulders separately with two yarn ends. Continue to the final body row and bind off. Bind off the held center stitches. The earlier split makes the front neck lower than the back.
- 5
Knit two matching sleeves.
For each sleeve, cast on the cuff count in the sleeve table with the smaller needle. Work 12 rows of 1×1 ribbing: knit the first and last seam stitches on every row, keep the knit columns as knit stitches, and purl the purl columns. Change to the main needle and work stockinette. On each listed outside-facing stockinette row, add one stitch near each edge using the lifted-increase method above. Keep going until the total sleeve row count is reached, then bind off. Make the second sleeve the same way.
- 6
Join the shoulder seams.
Lay the front and back with their right sides together. Match the shoulder edges and neck corners. Using a tapestry needle and a length of yarn, sew each pair of shoulder stitches with mattress stitch: catch the small bars just inside each edge, alternating sides every few stitches, then snug the seam without puckering. Leave the neck opening free.
- 7
Attach the sleeves and sew the sides.
Place the body flat with the right side up. Mark the side opening depth for your size down from each shoulder seam. Pin the center of a sleeve's bound-off top to the shoulder seam; pin its two ends at the bottom of the side opening. Match the sleeve edge between those points to the front and back side edges, easing gently without gathers, and sew it in place. Repeat for the other sleeve. Fold the sweater right sides together. Mattress-stitch each body side from the hem up, stopping at the opening marker. Sew each sleeve's long underarm edge from cuff to sleeve top.
- 8
Pick up the neck stitches and knit the collar.
With the smaller needle, start at a shoulder seam. Pick up one stitch in each bound-off stitch across the front neck and back neck. Along each short side edge between those necklines, pick up 20 stitches, spaced evenly. The resulting total for each size is in the neckline table. Join to work in the round, checking that the stitches are not twisted. Work knit one, purl one for 6 rounds (about 1 in / 2.5 cm), then bind off loosely in pattern.
- 9
Weave in ends and block the sweater.
Use the tapestry needle to weave each yarn tail through several stitches on the inside, changing direction once so it stays secure. Wash the sweater according to the yarn label. Press water out in a towel, lay it flat, and pat it to the body and sleeve measurements for your size. Let it dry fully; do not pull the ribbing wider.