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Beginner Crochet Sweater Lesson
Crochet a relaxed, seamed drop-shoulder pullover in US half-double crochet. This guide explains the stitches, shaping, seaming, and finishing, with provisional ready-to-follow counts for adult XS through XXL.
01 / Fit first
Choose a size that feels good.
Measure around the fullest part of your chest with the tape level. Choose the closest body-chest row. The target finished chest is about 6 in (15 cm) larger than the body measurement. Each panel count is half the target finished chest times 3.5 HDC stitches per inch, rounded to an even number so both shoulders match around the 28-stitch neck. This rounding can shift the gauge-based finished chest by a fraction of an inch.
| Adult size | Body chest | Finished chest | Body length | Sleeve length | Yarn estimate |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 32 in / 81 cm | 38 in / 97 cm | 22 in / 56 cm | 17 in / 43 cm | 1,200 yd / 1,097 m |
| S | 36 in / 91 cm | 42 in / 107 cm | 23 in / 58 cm | 18 in / 46 cm | 1,350 yd / 1,234 m |
| M | 40 in / 102 cm | 46 in / 117 cm | 24 in / 61 cm | 19 in / 48 cm | 1,500 yd / 1,372 m |
| L | 44 in / 112 cm | 50 in / 127 cm | 25 in / 64 cm | 20 in / 51 cm | 1,650 yd / 1,509 m |
| XL | 48 in / 122 cm | 54 in / 137 cm | 26 in / 66 cm | 21 in / 53 cm | 1,850 yd / 1,692 m |
| XXL | 52 in / 132 cm | 58 in / 147 cm | 27 in / 69 cm | 22 in / 56 cm | 2,050 yd / 1,875 m |
- Size key — XS extra small, S small, M medium, L large, XL extra large, XXL double extra large.
- Body length is measured from the shoulder seam straight down to the bottom edge.
- Sleeve length is measured along the sleeve from its top edge to the cuff.
- Yardage is a provisional whole-sweater estimate. Buy a little extra if your yarn lot or personal tension varies.
02 / Gather your tools
Materials and tools
Medium / worsted (#4) yarn
Use the yardage estimate for your size. A smooth, light-colored yarn makes the stitches easier to see.
5.5 mm (US I-9) crochet hook
The provisional main hook for the sweater fabric and gauge swatch.
Optional 5 mm (US H-8) hook
Use a smaller hook for edging if you prefer a firmer finish.
Tape measure
Check body measurements, swatch gauge, and panel lengths as you work.
Stitch markers
Mark the armhole openings and keep your row counts easy to follow.
Scissors
Cut the yarn after finishing each panel, sleeve, or joined edge.
Tapestry needle
Mattress-stitch the pieces together and weave in the yarn ends.
03 / Swatch before the sweater
Match the blocked gauge.
Gauge is how many stitches and rows fit in a measured area. This draft uses US half-double crochet at 14 stitches and 10 rows per 4 in (10 cm) after washing and blocking (3.5 stitches and 2.5 rows per inch). Body and sleeve row counts reserve about 0.8 in for the four-round single-crochet edging, then round the remaining HDC rows to a whole row.
- Make a generous swatch. With the 5.5 mm hook, chain 24 plus 2 turning chains and work 16 rows of HDC.
- Wash and dry it as you will the sweater. Lay it flat, pat it to shape, and let it dry without stretching.
- Measure the center 4 in (10 cm). Count 14 stitches across and 10 rows tall, avoiding the edge stitches.
- Adjust the hook if needed. More stitches per 4 in means try a larger hook; fewer means try a smaller hook. Swatch again until your blocked fabric matches.
04 / Ready-to-follow counts
Keep one size from hem to cuff.
Make two body panels and two matching sleeves. The table counts are calculated from the blocked half-double-crochet gauge above. The turning chain does not count as a stitch; add two chains to each listed panel or sleeve stitch count for the turning chain.
Front and back panels
| Size | Stitches in each panel | Stitches on each shoulder | Center neck stitches | Front split row | Back split row | HDC panel rows |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 66 | 19 each | 28 | 46 | 51 | 53 |
| S | 74 | 23 each | 28 | 49 | 54 | 56 |
| M | 80 | 26 each | 28 | 51 | 56 | 58 |
| L | 88 | 30 each | 28 | 54 | 59 | 61 |
| XL | 94 | 33 each | 28 | 56 | 61 | 63 |
| XXL | 102 | 37 each | 28 | 59 | 64 | 66 |
Work each panel straight through its split row. On that row, work one shoulder, skip the center neck stitches, and join a second yarn end to finish the other shoulder. The front split leaves eight rows for a deeper neck; the back split leaves three rows. Leave the top 20–25 rows of each side edge open for the sleeve opening, as listed below.
Two matching sleeves
| Size | Upper sleeve stitches | Cuff stitches | Paired decreases | Decrease on these rows | HDC sleeve rows |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 56 | 38 | 9 rows, two stitches each row | 4, 8, 12, 16, 20, 24, 28, 32, 36 | 41 |
| S | 56 | 38 | 9 rows, two stitches each row | 4, 8, 12, 16, 20, 24, 28, 32, 36 | 43 |
| M | 64 | 42 | 11 rows, two stitches each row | 4, 8, 12, 16, 20, 24, 28, 32, 36, 40, 44 | 46 |
| L | 64 | 42 | 11 rows, two stitches each row | 4, 8, 12, 16, 20, 24, 28, 32, 36, 40, 44 | 48 |
| XL | 70 | 46 | 12 rows, two stitches each row | 4, 8, 12, 16, 20, 24, 28, 32, 36, 40, 44, 48 | 51 |
| XXL | 70 | 46 | 12 rows, two stitches each row | 4, 8, 12, 16, 20, 24, 28, 32, 36, 40, 44, 48 | 53 |
Each decrease row removes one stitch near each edge. The listed schedule takes the sleeve from its upper count to its cuff count without changing the total row length.
Lengths and sleeve openings
| Size | Finished body length | Body side rows left open | Armhole depth | Finished sleeve length |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 22 in / 56 cm | 20 rows | 8 in / 20 cm | 17 in / 43 cm |
| S | 23 in / 58 cm | 20 rows | 8 in / 20 cm | 18 in / 46 cm |
| M | 24 in / 61 cm | 23 rows | 9 in / 23 cm | 19 in / 48 cm |
| L | 25 in / 64 cm | 23 rows | 9 in / 23 cm | 20 in / 51 cm |
| XL | 26 in / 66 cm | 25 rows | 10 in / 25 cm | 21 in / 53 cm |
| XXL | 27 in / 69 cm | 25 rows | 10 in / 25 cm | 22 in / 56 cm |
The upper sleeve stitch counts make a sleeve edge about twice the armhole depth, so it can be sewn to the open front and back side edges. Finished lengths include an estimated four-round single-crochet edging; measure your pieces as you work.
05 / Make it, one piece at a time
Step-by-step crochet instructions
This sweater is made flat in US half-double crochet (HDC), then sewn together. Work the turning chain loosely; it never counts as a stitch in this pattern. “Right side” is the outside of the sweater, and “wrong side” is the inside.
Chain and turn
Wrap the yarn over the hook and pull it through the loop already on the hook to make a chain. At the end of a row, chain 2 for the turning chain and turn your work. The turning chain gives height but is not counted as an HDC.
Half-double crochet
Yarn over, insert the hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops are on the hook), then yarn over and pull through all three loops.
Decrease with HDC2tog
Yarn over and pull up a loop in the next stitch, then do the same in the following stitch. Yarn over and pull through all five loops. Two stitches become one; use this decrease near both sleeve edges on a listed decrease row.
- 1
Make, wash, and measure a gauge swatch.
With the 5.5 mm hook, chain 24 plus 2 turning chains and work 16 rows of HDC. Wash and dry the swatch the way you will care for the sweater. Measure the center: the target is 14 HDC stitches and 10 rows per 4 in (10 cm). If you have more stitches, try a larger hook; if you have fewer, try a smaller hook. Re-swatch before choosing your size.
- 2
Start the back panel at the hem.
Choose your size in the pattern-count table. Chain the panel stitch count plus 2 for the turning chain. HDC in the third chain from the hook and across; you should have the listed number of stitches. Chain 2, turn, and HDC across every row, including the first stitch beside the turning chain. Keep the edges even and continue to the panel row count.
- 3
Shape the back neck, then make the front.
On the back split row for your size, work the shoulder stitches shown in the table, skip the center neck stitches, and join a second yarn end to work the remaining shoulder. Continue both shoulders separately to the final panel row and fasten off. Make a second panel the same way, but split at the earlier front row so the front neck is deeper.
- 4
Crochet two sleeves from shoulder to cuff.
For each sleeve, chain the upper sleeve stitch count plus 2 and work the listed number of HDC rows. On every decrease row in the table, HDC2tog after the first stitch and before the last stitch; continue in HDC between them. Your final row should have the cuff stitch count. Fasten off and make the second sleeve to match.
- 5
Join the shoulder seams and mark the openings.
Place front and back panels with right sides facing. Match and sew each shoulder across its stitches with a tapestry needle and mattress stitch, leaving the center neck open. From each shoulder, count down the armhole rows listed for your size along both side edges and place a marker. These unsewn upper edges form the drop-shoulder openings.
- 6
Attach sleeves and sew the side seams.
Center one sleeve’s upper edge on a shoulder seam, then pin its ends at the armhole markers. Sew the sleeve edge to the open front and back side edges, easing gently so they lie flat. Repeat on the other side. Fold the sweater with right sides together and mattress-stitch each sleeve underside and body side from cuff to hem, stopping the body seams at the markers.
- 7
Add simple single-crochet edging.
With the main hook or the optional smaller hook, join yarn at the hem and work 4 rounds of single crochet around the bottom edge. Repeat for each cuff and the neckline. Along row ends, space stitches evenly (about 2 single crochets for every 3 HDC rows) so the edge stays flat rather than ruffling or pulling in. Join each round with a slip stitch.
- 8
Weave in ends and block the sweater.
Thread each yarn tail onto the tapestry needle and weave it through several stitches on the wrong side, changing direction once. Wash the sweater according to the yarn label, press it gently in a towel, and lay it flat to dry. Smooth the panels to the size-chart measurements without stretching them; let the sweater dry completely before wearing.